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Eating Italian Carciofi alla Romana (Roman style artichokes) The word carciofi, like artichokes themselves, first came from Arabia, where the kharshuf brought two lovers together. Once upon a long-ago time the fair daughter of an Arabian farmer, after observing her donkey eating a strange plant, tried it herself. Experimenting with eating the thistles raw, grilled and stewed, she began selling them in the marketplace. A prince who heard of the new delicacy insisted on meeting the cook. They fell in love, married and lived happily ever after. Carciofi (Italian for artichokes) migrated north to Italy. Aristocrats in ancient Rome so craved this exotic treat that they forbad the masses from buying or eating them. "Artichokes were discovered by asses," the writer Pliny observed disdainfully, "and are still being consumed by them." During the Renaissance artichokes, which were believed to have therapeutic powers, became so expensive that only the wealthy could afford them. Catherine de' Medici of Florence toted artichokes—and cooks to prepare them—to Paris when she married the future king of France in 1533. The word carciofo debuted in Italian literature in the writings of the poet Ludovico Ariosto in the sixteenth century. By 1729, according to the venerable Vocabolario of the Accademia della Crusca, it had taken on another colloquial meaning as slang for a simpleton or foolish fellow. At the end of the nineteenth century, an enterprising cook named Angelo Valiani became famous for the tasty carciofini sott'olio (artichoke heads in oil) that he sold at train stations in Rome and other towns. Delighting in his success, he proudly named his newborn son Carciofino. His parish priest refused to baptize the boy with such an outlandish name. Valiani argued that if a wild beast (leone, or lion) could inspire the name of Leo XIII, the pope at the time, how could the church object to a plant? The priest, stumped for a rebuttal, gave his blessing to the boy called "Little Artichoke." Here is a recipe for the classic carciofi alla Romana from Suzanne Dunaway's Rome at Home (New York: Broadway Books, 2004) 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 6 medium globe or 20 baby artichokes, leaves trimmed down to the yellow part, stems peeled and greenish tops cut off to the yellow part 6 garlic cloves, chopped 2 fresh mint sprigs, leaves only 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup dry white wine or water 1 large lemon Heat the olive oil in a large pot with a lid over medium heat, then add the artichokes, cutting each in half if you like to create more surface area to be browned. Cook for a few minutes until golden, turning once, then add the garlic, mint leaves and salt. Cover and simmer for 6 or 7 minutes, then add the white wine or water, lower the heat, cover and continue cooking for 15 to 20 minutes, until the artichokes are very tender. Squeeze the lemon juice over the artichokes and serve at room temperature in the oil.   Touring Italian Palatine Hill We'll start on Palatine Hill, named for the goddess Pales, patroness of shepherds—and the oldest part of Rome. Rome's Palatine Hill In the eighth century B.C., the leader of a tribal settlement in central Italy ordered that the newborn sons of a disgraced Vestal Virgin be tossed into the Tiber. Their cradle, drifting downstream, washed ashore at the base of the Palatine hill. There, according to legend, a lupa (she-wolf) suckled the twins Romulus and Remus. However, their nursemaid may well have been human. Lupa was slang for prostitute, and brothels were known as lupinaria. During ongoing excavations on the Palatine hill, archaeologists recently discovered what could be the original lupercale, the cave that sheltered the twin boys and that later served as a shrine for their worship. In 753 B.C., after the boys had grown to maturity, they decided to build a new town on the banks of the Tiber. A violent argument erupted between them, and Romulus killed his brother Remus. Taking command, Romulus gave his name to the settlement that would grow into a great empire. The "Romance" languages, spoken by more than 700 million people today, trace their name to Rome and its founder. Over the centuries the Palatine hill, with its tranquil setting and splendid views, attracted rich and powerful residents. Octavius, later adopted by Julius Caesar, was born on this sacred site in 63 B.C. When the Senate proclaimed him Augustus, Rome's first emperor, he moved to a house near the small structure known as Romulus's hut. Augustus also constructed an immense library filled with Latin and Greek works and hosted frequent literary entertainments. His successors, the emperors Tiberius, Caligula and Claudius, built much grander homes atop the Palatine. Visitors to these mansions called them palazzi—the root of the word for "palatial" residences in French (palais), Spanish (palla) and English (palace). As you walk amid the ruins of these ancient houses, the centuries melt away. At sunset, after the tourists trudge down to the forum, you can gaze over the eternal city, listen to the birds and sense the glory that was Rome. To find out more: WhyGoItaly.com GoThereGuide.com Augenti, Andrea. The Art and Archaeology of Rome. Florence: SCALA Group, 2000. Boatwright, Mary, Daniel Gargola and Richard Talbert. The Romans: From Village to Empire. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2004.